SoCal Butterflies

Love a Ladybug (Ladybird Beetle)

2009-01-25T16:24:00.002-08:00

Ladybird, ladybird, fly away home—
Your house is on fire and your children all gone!
All except one and that's little Ann,
and she's crept under the warming pan.

Do you remember this old English poem? Maybe not, but the Ladybird beetle (or 'Ladybug') is one that often delights children and adults alike. To spot (no pun intended!) a little red half-dome in the garden will bring smiles on the face of even the most taciturn.

There are a large number of types Ladybirds or Ladybugs; if you were to do a google or yahoo search, your mind would be boggled! This insect undergoes complete metamorphosis, like the butterfly, and is considered a beneficial bug during its larval and adult stages.

Here is a Cycloneda sanguinea or Spotless Ladybird hunting for Aphids on an Asclepias curassavica 'Silky Gold' blossom. To answer the age-old question that elementary children will often ask, "No, you can't tell if a Ladybug is a boy or girl from the number of spots it has." Some species have none, some have seven, some even have 20! There are even different colours of these dainties, er, meat-eaters.

A female will oviposit 300 to 3000 eggs in her lifetime (depends on the species). A Ladybug's lifetime is generally longer than that of most butterflies—from three to six weeks (many butterflies live for only about two weeks). The eggs are laid in small clusters on the undersides of leaves. The shape? Think of a football! So, if you see little football-like clusters of yellow eggs, chances are fairly likely that you have come across Ladybug eggs. Mama Ladybugs often lay around 24 to 30 a day in these clusters. They are fairly easy to determine once you've seen them with your own eyes…you won't likely forget it!

The eggs begin to darken when the little ones are ready to hatch.
After about three days, a strange looking creature hatches that looks NOTHING like the cute creature we know and love. Nope, in fact, I bet many people have been in their gardens, seen this thing, and squished it! This creepy thing, believe it or not, is the Ladybug's BABY!

That's right, it is the larva of the Ladybird Beetle…amazing, isn't it? (Think of the butterfly's baby…the caterpillar…and how many people have squished, killed, sprayed caterpillars because they didn't realize that those wormy things turned into butterflies).

This little one has spotted some delicious Oleander Aphids lurking on the stems of a Milkweed plant. Mmmm…Notice this one has more colour than the one in the previous picture. This one is several days older (the previous one is just two days old).

The larval stage lasts around three weeks (21 days or so) and this time is wonderful for gardeners. Why? Well, Ladybird Beetle larvae are insectivores and will devour many of the bugs you don't want in your garden. They are considered a 'beneficial insect' so having them around is a good thing. In fact, during the larval stage, these babies can eat upwards of 300 Aphids! WOW! So, if you do see these strange-looking critters, be sure to give them the right of way and say, "Thanks!" Of course, on the other hand, if you raise butterflies, use care in collecting your butterfly eggs and larva because the Ladybird larvae will EAT the butterfly eggs/larvae. OH, and they may also eat one another (those little cannibals)...eeuwww!

Soon, it is time to pupate. The pupal stage is around a week. This picture is the pupa of an Asian Ladybird Beetle (Harmonia axyridis). It is also a pupa that is close to eclosing.

Here is the adult Asian Ladybird (Harmonia axyridis).
The life-cycle is complete once the adult ecloses, shedding its pupal case, and is free to go out and eat insects!

Is this a Mosquito? No, a Crane Fly

2009-01-25T16:24:00.001-08:00

YIKES! Check out the size of that mosquito! Nope, that is NOT a mosquito but it is a Crane Fly. Another name for this creature is Mosquito Hawk but these things do not hunt the mosquito nor do they eat 'em. The Nephrotoma suturalis wulpian is a member of the Diptera family (two wings).

Crane Flies are harmless as adults as they do not bite; basically their only job is to mate and reproduce. The larvae are what causes damage and the only damage that is done (if you can call it that) is to your lawn and that is IF you have thatch or dead areas of lawn (grass). The larvae of these insects feed on the root systems so if you want to see if you have any, dig down about three inches and you might find 'em.

So, if you find a Crane Fly, don't worry. You won't be bitten.

Rue can be a hazardous herb

2009-01-25T16:23:00.002-08:00

There are various hazards, believe it or not, with raising butterflies. Yes, it's true! One of the dangers is with some of the plants. If you raise Giant Swallowtails and have the plant commonly called Rue (Ruta graveolens), then you need to know that you do need to use care when handling this plant.

The oils in Rue (Ruta graveolens)contain a chemical called psoralens. When psoralens is exposed to Ultraviolet light (from the sun, sun-lamp, etc.) after it has been applied to skin, then the skin will blister or become brown or red as though it has been burned. The skin also becomes very sensitive. Some people will find the skin to become itchy.

This reaction is called phytophototoxicity. The reaction may not show up immediately but may pop up several days after the oils have been rubbed on the skin. So, if you develop strange markings on your skin and you've been working in the garden next to the Rue plant, you may have developed phytophototoxicity. Remember that the redness/blisters/etc. may not show up immediately. The pictures here were taken days after the reactions appeared. The pictured to the left, with blue markings, was taken after four days of having Rue leaves crushed and rubbed on the back of my hand (I was trying to determine what the reaction was from). Initially, NOTHING showed up. Two days later, the red mark appeared, much like a birthmark. On the third day, small blisters appeared.

This next picture shows areas on my forearm ten days after having been exposed to Rue and not realizing what had happened. (This is what I saw first, causing me to do the 'experiment' with the crushed leaves in the first picture.). No blisters appeared on my arm but the marks were quite visible. No itching or pain accompanied the marks.

How to help with this reaction? I used an over-the-counter cortisone cream on both areas. On the spots with blisters, after the blisters popped, I applied Neosporin cream to help ward off infection. Sunscreen was applied after these creams.

Apparently, not much information is readily available with regards to this particular phytophotoxicity. Years ago, tanning solutions actually contained psoralens since it does make your skin sensitive to sun when it is exposed to ultraviolet rays. It was also used to treat psoriasis and vitiligo. Who knew?

It took almost two months for the discolouration to completely disappear from my forearm. I used an herbal skin lightening hand cream made by 'Kiss My Face' twice daily followed by sunscreen (the sunscreen was re-applied several times a day). The large blistered area from the top of my hand still is discoloured but this had been a large blister so it will probably take longer to heal.

So, keeping in mind that when handling Rue, particularly in the summer when the sun is high, be careful!

Note: Parsley and other members of the Apiaceae family also contain this naturally-occurring chemical. Whether or not the same reaction will occur is unknown to the editor.

Did you know that Milkweed can be dangerous? The toxicity of Milkweed...

2009-01-25T16:23:00.001-08:00

Milkweed is dangerous? Yes, it can be! The milky sap from the Asclepias plant is toxic if ingested (eaten or swallowed). If you have young children, babies, or animals that like to put plants in their mouths, be sure that you keep an eye on them when they are out in the garden, especially if you have Milkweed around.

Speaking of 'eye,' the milky sap is EXTREMELY dangerous if it gets in your eye. Now, how would it get in your eye, you may wonder…the answer is simple. If you pluck a few leaves or flowers, then rub your face or eyes, then chances are, you may just get some of that sap to drip into your eye!

What will happen if the stuff gets in your eye? First, your eye will burn. Then, it will get red and itch. Soon, the cornea will become inflamed and you will lose your vision. You will need to get to an ophthalmologist immediately so that prescription drops can be administered. It will take from a week to two weeks for the pain (yes, it can be quite intense for the first few days!) to lessen and the poor vision to clear.

Even if you wear gloves, just remember to keep your hands AWAY from your face.

And, keep all Milkweed OUT of mouths.

There's a reason Monarchs and other Milkweed butterflies are poisonous to birds…

Be safe, not sorry.

I found yellow eggs! No, those are APHIDS!

2009-01-25T16:22:00.000-08:00

"I found these little yellow-orange things on my Milkweed. Are they eggs?" Sorry, they are NOT eggs but are Aphids. The common name for them is Oleander Aphid or Milkweed Aphid). *Click on picture to enlarge*

The Aphis nerii are sap suckers and will literally drain your plant of its 'life juices.' They leave behind a 'honeydew' that can then develop a black, sooty mold-like substance and this leaves the Milkweed looking rather sad and pathetic. Many times, you will find Ants nearby. With repeated Aphid 'attacks,' Milkweed can become severely deformed in its growth.

This is an interesting insect in several ways. They are an obligate parthenogenetic species which means that all of the adults are females. Some have wings and these are called alata and the wingless ones are called apterae. The adults do not lay eggs but deposit nymphs that are basically clones of the adult female.

Are Oleander Aphids are harmful to Milkweed? When I think of Aphids, I feel that whether they are the Oleander Aphid or Black Aphid, I do NOT want them on my plants because they drain the life from them. I use JUST WATER to get rid of them since they tend to hang out in my butterfly sanctuary. Use a heavy stream/spray of water and blast away. If the plants wilt, don't worry as they will spring back soon. Using soap, insecticidal soap, sprays, etc. will only coat the Milkweed with chemicals that can be potentially harmful to any Monarch caterpillar that might eat the leaves. A strong spray of water easily washes the Aphids off of the plant.

If you are raising Monarch or Queen butterflies, think about employing another good anti-Aphid control: the Ladybug or Ladybird Beetle. These little critters are great because they eat the Aphids! Their larvae (babies) also eat Aphids so having them around is a plus.

*Just keep in mind that Ladybugs will also eat butterfly eggs and young caterpillars! If you are not out there harvesting the eggs and caterpillars, your Ladybugs are probably saying, "MMM! Yummy!"

Note: Controversies exist as to whether or not butterfly larvae actually eat the Aphids...who knows? I haven't witnessed it myself. As to whether or not it is harmful to simply leave the Aphids ON the plants, well, it is up to you. Just keep in mind that these critters will eventually destroy your plants and they multiply quite rapidly! Personally, I prefer to have Asclepias plants Aphid-free.

PS: If you squish these Aphids with your fingers, your fingers will turn an orange-yellow colour.

By the way, Ladybug eggs do not look anything at all like the Oleander Aphid. Here is a picture of a group of Ladybug eggs. They are found on the undersides of a leaf (in this case, an Asclepias curassavica aka Tropical Milkweed leaf). Ladybug eggs are football-shaped and more orange in colour. The key? The don't have legs!

Is that a Bee? No, it's a Hover Fly!

2009-01-25T16:21:00.002-08:00

Have you ever seen this little guy? This is a Syrphid or a 'Hoverfly' or 'Flower Fly.' The Syrphids belong to the group of 'true flies' that have only one pair of wings.

FYI: wasps and bees have two pairs of wings.

This little insect is a teeny little thing found in the garden and hovers about, nectaring on flowers. The adults gather nectar and pollen from the flowers and are one of few insects that can digest pollen. It is one of the few flies that can actually digest pollens.

The Syrphid larvae are important in the garden. Many are insectivores and eat aphids, thrips, and other plant-sucking bugs. The larvae look nothing like the adult but are legless and have a tapered (narrow) head. A single larvae can eat hundreds of aphids in just one month! (Note: Some Syrphid fly species feed on fungi)

Hoverflies mimic the bumblebee...this helps to keep the predators away. They also are sting-less so don't worry; you won't get stung!

So, if you see these...
then know your garden is in good hands.

Raising Painted Lady Caterpillars

2009-01-25T16:21:00.001-08:00

Did your caterpillar hatch from its egg? Are you even able to see it? Painted Lady 'babies' are super tiny when they first hatch. At first they appear to be little black specks.

If your egg was on a leaf (you didn't take the egg off the leaf) then check the underside of the leaf as the caterpillars often will travel there upon hatching.

If you had taken the eggs off the leaves then look carefully for these little black specks. Get out your magnifying lens. If you look super closely, you will see that the black speck isn't an ant but a Painted Lady baby! Yep, it is a caterpillar! A hatchling! A larva!

Okay, now it is time to get serious. You now have an important job as a foster parent. It's time to get your 'nursery' ready. What tools do you need? It isn't as difficult as you may think and many of the things are probably around your house.

Tools for the Caterpillar Nursery:

rearing container (small plastic cup with lid)
fine-tipped paintbrush (NOT one that has been used!)
Q-tip (if no paintbrush is available)
coffee filter or toilet tissue
camera (if you want to take pictures)

For the Painted Lady a small container is best for rearing the larva (caterpillars). You do not have to worry about poking little air holes in the lid as long the container isn't airtight (in other words, don't use Tupperware!). Get one of those small condiment containers from a fast food restaurant; they are perfect! The ones that hold ketchup can be used for the first week then you can 'graduate' to the bigger /larger sized ones that hold salsa...

NOTE: The 5 1/2-oz. size is the PERFECT size because it can be used during the entire life-cycle

Place your hatchling into your 'rearing' container. IF the hatchling is already on a leaf, then it is simple! Just cut/pinch off the leaf from the plant and put the entire leaf into the container.

If the baby is not on a leaf then you will need to use the paintbrush (or Q-tip). This is where it is MOST important to note the delicacy of the 1st instar Painted Lady. Most butterflies die during the 1st and 2nd instars of their lives. The Painted Lady goes through five instars (stages) before they pupate. The 1st instar is when they first hatch from the egg. They are just minuscule! Too much handling is hazardous at this point. So, if you don't have to handle them, then don't. If you do, then be super careful. The fine-tipped paintbrush is a great tool as it does little to no damage if used correctly.

Gently touch the tip of the brush to the baby. Then, transfer the little one to a leaf, softly touching the tip of the brush to the leaf. IF you don't have a paintbrush you can use a Q-tip instead.

Food! Like any baby your hatchling is HUNGRY! What do you feed it? The mama Painted Lady knew exactly where to oviposit (lay the egg): on the 'right' host plant. Host plants are those plants that a butterfly utilizes for its larva. Adult butterflies can sense which plants are the right ones and may 'scratch' the surface of a leaf with their 'feet' to taste it to be sure before ovipositing (laying eggs). The Painted Lady has a number of different host plants so finding baby food isn't very difficult. It will be important, however, that you feed your little young ones food that has had NO pesticides or other poisons sprayed onto it.

What are some 'baby foods' you can feed your little ones?

Cheeseweed is a common 'weed' that you can probably find growing wild in your garden or in the local park. If you live in Southern California you will probably find this plant just about EVERYWHERE!

The scientific name is Malva parviflora. It is also known as Little Mallow. Common mallow (Malva neglecta) can also be used as can most plants in the Malvaceae family.

Note: The Spanish name is also Malva…

Another plant that you can use it the Lavatera maritima. Many people have this plant in their gardens as it is a very pretty, decorative plant (although I must say, personally, I feel that the flower blossoms are NOT at all fragrant!). You will need to feed your larva a leaf. One leaf is all it will need. Give it a fresh, young leaf. Remember, Painted Ladies use plants from the Malva family for their host plants. You can give it a Lavatera leaf, Hollyhock leaf, Cheeseweed leaf, Malva leaf, Thistle leaf...One small leaf will be just fine for two days. Once the leaf dries up then you will need to give it another fresh leaf. Dried leaves are NOT good or healthy for the youngster.

For the first week, don't even worry about the frass (poop). It is so small it won't matter much. Just be sure a fresh leaf is available. The first two days the one leaf will probably last and be fresh. After that, be careful and tear away the leaf around the caterpillar, throwing the dried leaf away and place a new, fresh leaf in the container. Every two days do this.

It takes approximately two weeks for a Painted Lady caterpillar to eat and poop before it is ready to begin the next stage in the life-cycle. It will have undergone four instars (molts—shedding of the skin) and grown considerably by now. It is no longer a teensy little caterpillar, the size of an ant but about 1.5" or so long! When it is ready to pupate, caterpillars to stop eating and begin to roam. If you have the larvae in a large container/habitat, you will notice this behaviour as it is quite unusual. The larvae begin to move quickly and start wandering around with great purpose (almost like a little kid who has to go to the bathroom right NOW!).

Painted Ladies, like many other brush-foot butterflies, will pupate by hanging in what's called a 'J' position. This means the caterpillar will look for a place to make a silken pad, attach its last prolegs to it, and hang head down, so its body looks like the letter J. When raising Painted Ladies indoors, you can provide a really simple and inexpensive medium for the caterpillar by using coffee filters or toilet tissue! Simply cut the coffee filter (or if using toilet tissue, Charmin's Ultra is excellent! You don't have to cut it; just tear off one square from the roll…) and place it over the top of a cup (if you are using a cup) containing the caterpillar, place the lid on top of that, and that's it! The caterpillar will soon make its way to the lid and pupate onto the paper.
Here's a cup with the paper (and a few Lavatera leaves) to show what a ready-to-pupate Painted Lady container would look like. Of course, you'd want the cup to be UPRIGHT, not tilted on its side like in this picture.

If using a large enough cup/container, the pupa can remain in it during its entire 2-week period as it undergoes metamorphosis. If the container is rather small, then it will be important to transfer the pupa to a larger habitat. Keep in mind that the pupa needs to 'harden' before it is moved. Pupae are quite fragile while still in the early stages (they appear to be wet; you want to wait until they look dry—wait a few hours before moving). Once a pupa has hardened, you can easily move it to a different habitat, if necessary. Having the pupa on paper makes it VERY convenient as you can cut a small circle around the pupa and simply tape the paper to your larger habitat!

IMPORTANT NOTE: IF your Painted Lady happens to NOT attach itself to the paper (i.e. the chrysalis falls off) do not worry! This does not mean you won't have a butterfly…instead, simply take the pupa (after it hardens, of course) and carefully place it on the bottom/floor of your habitat. Don't try to glue or tie the chrysalis to a stick or something…it isn't necessary. Just be sure to provide something for the eclosing butterfly like a stick or chopstick, so that it can climb up and pump up and dry its wings.

It will take around two weeks for the pupa to undergo metamorphosis. Soon, a beautiful butterfly will eclose (NOT hatch! It isn't coming out of an egg, for goodness sake!). As the Vanessa cardui is not an overly large butterfly it shouldn't take more than a few hours for it to pump up and harden/dry its wings and be ready to take flight!

If you notice a reddish-orange coloured liquid, don't fret. This is called meconium and is the waste product from the pupa. If you use a mesh habitat, it is easiest to clean the meconium using an organic soap made from coconuts. Meconium can stain and can be difficult to remove but coconut-based soaps work very well at removing the stain (and are not at all harsh to your skin). Many health food stores and eco-friendly sections of stores carry coconut-based soaps and detergents. Clorox now has their 'Green' products that are eco-friendly. The dishwashing detergent is a GREAT product to have on hand to use for cleaning meconium off of your clothing, hands, or habitats!

*Side note: Coconut-based cleaning products like the new Clorox Green Works products work GREAT at cleaning stains that you would not normally be able to remove like crayon, adhesive from labels, ink, etc. The Butterfly Guide editor does NOT work for the company...in case you wondered.

The Gulf Fritillary butterfly

2009-01-25T16:20:00.001-08:00

The Gulf Fritillary butterfly is what started me on my 'journey' into raising butterflies. This beauty is often mistaken for the Monarch but once you see one, you will definitely recognize it as a totally different butterfly!

The Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae) is of the brush-foot or Nymphalidae family and its subfamily is the long-wings (Heliconiiae). It is a medium-sized butterfly whose wingspan is from 2.5" to 3.75". The upper-side is a bright reddish-orange with black veins and the underside is brownish with the most glorious iridescent silvery spots. Those silvery spots is what makes it differ greatly from the Monarch (Monarchs do not have silvery spots but are orange on their undersides).

If you happen to live in the South (although you may find some stray GFs in the Northern United States!) and you just happen to have Passionvine (Passiflora) plants, then guess what...you will probably find the eggs of these beauties! Gulf Frits use the Passiflora family for their host plant (including the Maypops and Running Pops). There are some Passiflora that are toxic, though, to the little caterpillars although mama GF may not realize this. Many of the red-flowered Passis are poisonous to the larvae and some of the blues are as well. Mama Gulf Frit may oviposit (lay her eggs) on the plant not knowing that her little babies will die upon eating the leaves.

Mama will usually oviposit (lay the egg) on the tops of the leaves or tendrils of the Passiflora but this is no guarantee! Sometimes eggs can be found on the undersides of leaves. Ova (eggs) are laid singularly, not in groups. The egg of the Gulf Frit is a dark yellow and it looks sort of like a corn kernel or football. When it is first oviposited, it is a nice bright colour.

After a few days, as the larva (caterpillar) begins to develop, it begins to change colour to a copper. The top slowly becomes very dark (this is the larva's head) and this will indicate that it is getting ready to hatch! Click on the pictures for a closer view.

After about four days or so a little caterpillar will hatch. It will eat its eggshell first before beginning its journey on eating the Passi leaves.

Growth is fairly rapid, and over the course of about two weeks, the larva (caterpillar) will undergo several instar changes. Each time it molts (sheds its skin) it will turn around and EAT the shed exuvia. Ewwww! NOT!

So, two weeks of eating and pooping, eating and pooping (caterpillar poop is called frass) goes by and the little one has molted five times and it is now time to pupate.
The gigantic caterpillar will decide, "HEY! I need to go and find me a nice place to hang out for awhile." The big guy will take off, usually FAR away from the host plant (but not always), to find a super-duper place to pupate.
Now, the pupa of the Gulf Fritillary is a non-descript brown. It looks almost like a dried up, wilted leaf. If you look carefully, however, you can see where the abdomen and thorax are as well as where the wings of the new butterfly will be! The spiracles (breathing 'holes') are even visible upon close inspection...

During the time it is pupating, it will undergo complete metamorphosis upon which it will become that amazing creature the butterfly!
And, after about two weeks, what should eclose but a most beautiful Gulf Fritillary butterfly! (this one is a male)

The Giant Swallowtail butterfly

2009-01-25T16:19:00.002-08:00

The Giant Swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes or Heraclides cresphontes) is a truly spectacular butterfly in the Parnassian (Papilionidae) family of butterflies. The upper-side is dark with a yellow chevron and the under-side is the yellow that just can't be described. It is a fairly large butterfly whose wingspan can reach from 4" to 6.25" and when you see one, you won't likely forget it!

Even a tattered and torn one, as the one pictured on the title of this blog is still a beauty. The Giant Swallowtail (name shortened to GST) is generally found from May through September in many parts of the United States but flutters about year-round in Florida and in the south.

If you happen to have citrus trees and have found a 'scary' looking worm-like creature on the leaves of your trees, then you may have found a GST baby! The larvae of the Giant Swallowtail actually resembles bird poop which is a great form of camouflage as it helps to keep the birds and other predators from eating them.

They also have an interesting body part that, if provoked, will 'come out' like big reddish-orange antlers along with a most detestable odour (reminds me of a stinky cat litter box!). The osmeterium will then go right back and the caterpillar will continue doing whatever it was doing (probably eating) now that the predator has been properly chastened.

The Giant Swallowtail will oviposit (lay eggs) on trees and herbs in the citrus (Rutaceae) family such as Navel orange, Rue (Ruta graveolens), and Meyer's lemon; and Hop tree (Ptelea trifoliata).

The mama butterfly will often look for a young leaf and will oviposit singularly on the top of the leaf. Keep in mind, that this is not always the case as I have found eggs on older leaves and even on the undersides of a few...

Here is a picture of Rue with some of its pretty yellow blossoms.

GST eggs are spherical as are many of the butterfly eggs of those in the swallowtail family.

The GST egg pictured is on the end and on top of a Rue leaf.

After five days or so, a little Giant Swallowtail caterpillar hatches from the egg.

First, you will see its little head poking through the eggshell.

It will then slowly work its way out of its shell, twisting and turning until it can get out.

It will turn around and eat its eggshell then begin to eat the leaf upon which it was laid. The hatchling is usually more brown and tan in colour and changes to the darker gray in a later instar. Even at the 1st instar, when provoked, the larva will 'shoot out' its osmeterium! Check it out here; you can see it if you look carefully!If anything bad is going to happen, it is probably going to happen when the little one is tiny (1st or 2nd instar). These little guys are most delicate when they first hatch. Why? I don't know. Less handling is best.This little hatchling (1st instar) is on an orange leaf. Note the light-brown coloration.

Here is a 2nd instar. It still looks a lot like the 1st instar. The front part is beginning to thicken (towards the head).

If raising GSTs be aware that the larvae (caterpillars) are most definitely cannibalistic. What?! Yes, they can (and most likely will) eat one another if raised in the same rearing container. I learned this lesson after raising a number of Giant Swallowtails in small containers and found that I was suddenly 'missing' one and another was quite large in size one day. This seems to occur once the larvae get to be about 1" long...at least in my experience! Now I am more careful and do not keep all siblings in the same container.

GSTs do not move very quickly. They often will eat then remain still for long periods of time. They don't seem to indulge in as many leaves as other butterfly larvae. They are considered a pest, however, and are often called 'Orange Dogs' by those who work in nurseries.

Interestingly, I have found that there are some people who work in nurseries who did not realize that the 'Orange Dog' actually was the larvae of the Giant Swallowtail butterfly! They just thought it was a terrible pest that must be eradicated. (No wonder when I'd come along and offer to take the little guys off of their citrus plants they would be quite happy!)

If you were to touch the GST caterpillar, you'd find its skin to be smooth...somewhat similar to that of a Gummi Worm. Ahhh...

When it is time to pupate, the GST will look for a place on which to make its sling. Like other swallowtails, the GST does not hang upside-down and form a 'J' but will make a silken harness and hang at a diagonal, right-side up. The pupa is sort of a brown and if you look at it carefully, it just might remind you of a character from Disney's Alice in Wonderland!

Now, here's an interesting thing about swallowtails. You just can't be on a time schedule with them when you want them to eclose. Just because you have a pupa or two or three, don't expect them to eclose so that you'll have butterflies fluttering about in two weeks. Giant Swallowtails overwinter as pupae and IF they don't want to eclose right away, they just won't. I've had some that decided to 'hang around' for ten months or so then one day, just eclosed.

Enjoy raising these beauties. When they are young, they are tender little things. When they are grown, they are truly spectacular.

Special note: If you want to gender ID male/female adult Giant Swallowtails, look at the end of the abdomens. Males have 'claspers' and they are quite obvious to see! (All male butterflies have claspers but they are more easily seen on the GST.) Click on the picture on the right to enlarge it. Now, click on the picture of the butterfly on the above left. You will note that the female does not have the claspers!

I just found a caterpillar! What do I do?

2009-01-25T16:19:00.001-08:00

"I found a caterpillar!" The wonderment of it all…but now, what to do?

Do you remember back when you were a child and you found a caterpillar? What did you do with it? Chances are you put it in a jar (washed peanut butter of mayonnaise, I bet). You then added some grass or leaves from the garden and a stick for it to climb on. Did I guess correctly? Then, that poor little caterpillar ended up…dead. Hmmm…why did this happen?

The first thing you need to know is that butterflies are VERY specific about what plants they oviposit (lay eggs) on which means their babies (larvae aka caterpillars) will only eat very specific plants! Here, a mama Gulf Fritillary oviposits an egg onto a Passiflora leaf.

That means if you have 'found a caterpillar' you will need to make sure you are very careful in observing exactly WHAT plant that caterpillar was on when you found it because, that plant is its 'host plant.' Feeding it the wrong food will KILL the little guy. Sure, sometimes a caterpillar will wander onto a plant that is not its host plant (baby food). It might have fallen off its host plant or was on its way to pupate…

Be sure to look at all the plants in the vicinity of that caterpillar. This will help you in identifying what type of butterfly baby you've found as well as what type of 'baby food' you need to feed it. All those times you fed your caterpillar grass is why the poor dear died!

You can put the caterpillar in a jar (yes, those peanut butter jars will work!) or even something as simple as one of those Gladware cups. These recycled containers make excellent rearing containers for caterpillars. Even those plastic clamshell-type of fast-food containers can be used as a caterpillar habitat! There's no need to poke holes in the jar lid as long as you don't seal it completely.

Caterpillars don't have enough (usually!) strength to push the lid off of a container. Just make sure you aren't sealing the container completely (in other words, Tupperware probably is NOT a good choice for a rearing container).Plastic shoes boxes work well if you have a lot of caterpillars to raise. Just place a folded sheet of paper towel along the bottom; this will help when you clean out the frass (poop).

Keep the caterpillar rearing container out of direct sunlight. Provide fresh leaves (from the host plant). Dried out/dehydrated leaves are just not appetizing and won't keep your caterpillar alive anyway. (Would you want to eat dried up lettuce?) If you want to include a stick or two, go for it.

A few key points: Be sure to throw out all the frass (caterpillar poop) each day. Leaving the frass in the jar is 1) unhealthy, 2) can build mold, 3) is just plain disgusting! Moisture is another no-no as it increases the chance of bacteria and virus growth. So, keep that jar away from sunlight!

Caterpillars generally do nothing more than eat and poop, eat and poop, molt (shed their exoskeleton) several times, eat and poop some more for about two weeks. Then, they decide it is time to pupate and they stop eating.Here is a Gulf Fritillary larva that has just molted. You can see its exuvia (shed skin) to the right.

NOTE: If you find your caterpillar has not eaten for a bit do not worry! It may be getting ready to molt! Caterpillars shed their skin (molt) about five times before they pupate. When they are ready to molt they often do not eat but just kind of 'hang out.' Don't bug 'em but let 'em be. That freshly-shedded skin won't be around long because the caterpillar usually turns around and EATS IT! Eeeeuw! The 'new' skin is damp and fragile until it 'hardens.'

When your caterpillar decides it is time to pupate it will stop eating. Some caterpillars hang upside-down, pupating with its head down (some people call this the 'J' position). Others form a sling or harness and hang at a diagonal, head up (swallowtails generally pupate head up with a sling). But, keep in mind that EVERYONE is different! Some, who you know are 'supposed' to hang in a sling at a diagonal will decide to hang from the ceiling…

It can take several hours to over a day before a caterpillar completes pupating. This is when it molts the final time. The last thing you will probably find is its head capsule. (This is a cool looking thing if you look at it close-up.)

Now, this is where things can get interesting. MOST butterflies will eclose, after undergoing complete metamorphosis, in two weeks. SOME can go into diapause (commonly referred to as overwintering) where they remain a chrysalis/pupa for up to a year or more! (Yes, I've had some Pipevine Swallowtails that were pupae for over 14 months.) Just like human children, butterflies are all individuals and will do things in their own time.

Upon eclosing (coming out of the chrysalis) it can take upwards of four hours for the butterfly to stretch out and inflate its wings, and getting its wings to harden. The larger the butterfly, the more time it needs after it ecloses. This is why having a larger rearing container is better than a smaller one. (More info on rearing containers to come…)

When your butterfly has hardened wings, it is ready to let go!

Be sure to release the beauty when the weather is dry (no rain) and warm. Butterflies are cold-blooded and need the warmth to help them fly.

Whew! Did you get all of that? If so, then you are set to get started!

What tools do I need in order to raise a caterpillar?

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Should I leave the eggs and little caterpillars I find out in the garden or should I bring them indoors? The decision is entirely up to Y-O-U. Keep in mind that IF you do choose to hand-raise butterflies then your job as a foster parent is a BIG one! You are responsible to feed and clean them, as you will be taking care of the little ones for at least two weeks on a daily basis. If you choose to leave the ova (egg) or larva (caterpillar) outside, then there are possibilities that predators could come along...and so a butterfly may not make it to adulthood…

If you are still reading then you must have decided that you are going to become a foster parent. Okay, here goes…

Although butterfly babies (larvae aka caterpillars) are all quite different in their specific food needs, just like human babies their basic needs are very similar. Butterfly babies need a safe and clean place to live (rearing container) and good, quality food (what is called the 'host' plant). By providing these things, and being careful while doing so, your babies will grow up hopefully, to become a fantastic fluttering butterfly.

To start, you should gather some 'basics,' just like you would a baby. The basics would include:

small bowl
tissues or paper towels
clean paint brush (fine-tipped and wide-tipped)
tweezers (optional)
rearing container (more on this below…)
round coffee filters or toilet tissue
scissors
tape (I prefer packaging tape)

When larvae are really young it is best to NOT over-handle them. This is why you need that fine-tipped brush! Super-young caterpillars are at their most vulnerable when they first hatch. Too much handling is almost like manhandling (sorry for the pun!) and damage can result. Just let the caterpillar climb onto the brush or a leaf instead of actually poking or prodding it. IF a caterpillar is going to die (and many do when they are in their early instars) then don't add to the numbers because of your manhandling!

Leaving the larva on the leaf and simply moving that leaf into a container is a simple and safe way to 'handle' the baby. You can then just take that leaf and put it into a container. You can use the tweezers to move the leaf.

What type of a rearing container should you use? It isn't necessary to go out and purchase an expensive habitat or terrarium for the larvae. There are probably many things that can be recycled that will suffice (and this will also be good for the environment as well!). Those clam-shell to-go containers are great for raising caterpillars and can also be used for when they are pupating (as long as the depth of the containers is such that a butterfly has enough space to spread its wings).

Inexpensive shoeboxes from the 'dollar store' are also perfect because, again, they often don't form an airtight seal PLUS are tall enough for a butterfly to spread its wings once it ecloses (comes out of its chrysalis).It isn't necessary to make air holes in many of these containers because 1) they don't form an airtight seal, 2) there's just enough air that is contained within the container, and 3) you can easily poke holes (just do it from the INSIDE so that any burrs from the holes are on the OUTSIDE and not on the inside). For specific details on rearing containers, click Rearing Containers.

Here are some examples of containers containing Painted Lady larvae.

The paper towel on the bottom of the clamshell (picture on left) helps make cleaning the frass (poop) easier as you simply have to pick up the larvae and leaves, lift up the entire paper towel, shake the frass into a trash can, and then put the paper towel back (if it isn't soiled) or replace it.

Daily frass (poop) removal and container cleaning is ESSENTIAL. It is as important as providing your caterpillars with fresh food. Never feed your babies dried-up leaves. Never feed them leaves that are moldy, have rust, or are just plain nasty! Think of it this way: if the LEAF is sick then you caterpillar could get sick! If you leave frass in the container, it is like keeping a baby in the same diaper all day long.

The paper towel also helps to absorb moisture. Moisture is a BAD thing for caterpillars. Heat is also bad (so don't put the containers where sunlight can get in). Heat and moisture can contribute to bacteria and virus growth; just like humans can get sick from a 'bad' bacteria/virus, so can caterpillars! If you see water droplets forming on the inside of your caterpillar's container, it is time to air and dry it out!

NOTE: How can you tell if your caterpillar is sick? Some things to watch for:
1. Runny, diarrhea-like scree (poop)
2. Strange odour
3. Body turns black
4. Body elongates

If any of these symptoms appear, it is important to immediately remove the caterpillar and disinfect the container, tossing all food in the trash (I put it in a baggy first). Isolate the caterpillar from the others as the scree can contain crystals that can be ingested (eaten) by other caterpillars which can make them sick, too! Don't forget to wash your own hands as well. You can use Clorox wipes to disinfect the counter and your tools but be sure to use water to rinse everything afterwards.

Know that there are certain butterfly species can be cannibalistic (in other words, they will EAT one another!) so my rule of thumb is to keep only same-size instars ('age stage') larvae in the same container. Don't put a big guy with a little guy because you may find that the little guy has disappeared and the big guy has become BIGGER!

As your larvae nears the 2-week mark you will notice they have grown substantially in size. What once were teeny little things are now humongous! Soon it will be time for pupating (if it is outdoors, it will migrate away from the host plant, sometimes FAR away!).

For those larvae that are in a rearing container you will need to provide places for them to pupate. IF your container is large enough, you don't have to do anything more than place a paper towel or coffee filter or toilet tissue across the TOP of your container. If your container is NOT big enough, read on…

Some larvae pupate by hanging upside-down in a 'J' position. Others form a silken sling or harness and hang right-side up (like the swallowtails). The paper towel/coffee filter provides a medium for the caterpillar to pupate upon AND it serves as another purpose: you can easily transfer the pupa to another container once the chrysalis has hardened!

If you are raising swallowtails, providing sticks of some sort is always nice since they like to pupate, most of the time, on a stick. I often use chopsticks stuck in green florist's foam (the foam is called Oasis) for the swallowtails.

Although it isn't necessary to go and buy fancy butterfly pop-ups, Insectlore sells inexpensive mesh 'habitats' on-line for under $20. The shorter one is called the Butterfly Garden and comes as part of a 'kit' which includes five Painted Lady larvae. The taller one is the Pavilion and can be purchased as part of a kit or by itself. To purchase either of these items, click on the Insectlore Butterfly Kit link.

Once the pupa has hardened and the head capsule has been 'popped' off (see picture) if you want to move the chrysalis, you can do so safely. This is where the tape comes in. Simply roll some packaging tape into a loop, then tape the pupa (chrysalis) onto another rearing container. Make sure the new container (IF you are moving the pupa) has enough space for an adult butterfly to spread its wings. If the container has smooth walls, then be sure to provide a stick so the butterfly has something to climb onto.)

You just want to be sure that no matter what you do use that the butterfly can safely eclose (come out of the chrysalis) and be able to SPREAD its wings without being forced to have crumpled up wings. Having something to hold on to will also keep the butterfly from drowning in its meconium (waste fluids, often a reddish-brownish liquid) that you may see after it ecloses.

Now, all you have to do is wait for the butterfly to harden its wings (larger butterflies need more time), then you can release it when the outdoor temperatures are around 70-degrees. Whew! A piece of cake!

The Pipevine Swallowtail butterfly

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There is a butterfly that is just, well, spectacular. No other word can possibly describe this one when you see it in person. Truly. It is none other than the Pipevine Swallowtail.

The Battus philenor has the most iridescent blue on its hindwing you've ever seen in a swallowtail found in North America. It is so brilliant that when the sun hits it, you just are in absolute awe. Sure, many will say that the Blue Morpho is gorgeous but the Morpho isn't a North American butterfly! Here is a swallowtail that is found in many areas of the United States.

This medium to large butterfly (wingspan from 2.75" to 5" across) is named after its host plant, the Pipevine. Interestingly, there are a number of different Pipevine
plants yet, this particular butterfly canNOT survive on just any of them. Like the Gulf Fritillary, it is quite persnickety and certain plants are deadly to its offspring. The Aristolochia (Pipevine) plants that this particular beauty's babies can eat are those NOT in the tropical range. So, use great care if you plan on raising them, please! Don't make the mistake of getting a 'Pipevine' plant and think that your beauty will be safe. You could end up with a lot of dead caterpillars.

Some 'safe' Aristolochia plants include A. tomentosa, A. durior, A. fimbriata, A. californica, and A. serpentaria.

The mama begins by ovipositing these reddish-brownish spheres in groups, usually on the vines, not the leaves…and the babies then hatch from these eggs. Like most butterflies, it can take from four days to a week for the little ones to hatch and when they do, they sure are cute!

With their big black heads and their bright orange-coloured bodies, the first instars have a rather interesting look. This swallowtail is a gregarious bunch; they enjoy hanging out with their siblings. It is rare to see one by its lonesome!

After the initial ravenous eating and pooping stage, the second instar shows a somewhat different 'look' for the PVS larva. Gone is that big black head. The colouring is still about the same but now the body has begun to develop a sort of rugged, rigged look. It is beginning to have the contours of the more 'adult' larvae although the colouring is still more orange.

And, yes, these little ones do eat their exuviae once they've molted, in case you were wondering…

Now, initially, the Pipevine Swallowtail larvae don't seem to eat much. Nope, they seem to be quite lackadaisical in their search for food. Don't let them fool you though! The 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd instars just aren't THAT big of a 'hungry munching machine' as are the later instars! You'd best have a LOT of Pipevine (Arisolochia) available!

They may not seem to eat much initially, but just wait. These little guys turn into the most amazing leaf munchers around!

Oh, there is something that hsan't been mentioned yet. If you are familiar with the swallowtail larvae, then this is not new to you. But for those of you who are new to the swallowtails, then BEWARE! And, all of you who are new to the Pipevine Swallowtail should definitely take note. These pretty little caterpillars have the most noxious odour imaginable! That's right…odour as in SMELL as in STINK!!!! If you have ever smelled a used, nasty cat litter box, then that is about what raising PVS is like…yep, you got it! Check out this picture. See the osmeterium? This little fleshy organ is what the little bugger sticks out to scare away predators and when it comes out, then your nose had better watch out! That's when the smells begin!

You can get an idea that the osmeterium is about to come out when you see…

Then you know that trouble is coming soon!

When the PVS caterpillar is in the 3rd instar, this is when the MAJOR eating and pooping begins. It is truly amazing just how much foliage these caterpillars can consume. Not only can they consume massive quantities but they are L-O-U-D when they chew! (Didn't their mamas teach them to talk AFTER they've finished chewing nd swallowin?)

Again, because this is a 'swallowtail,' the pupa will hang from a sling/harness instead of the 'J' or head-down position. Pipevine Swallowtails are unusual (at least to me) because they do not, and I repeat, they do NOT eclose in a timely manner like other butterflies. Nope, they 'choose' when they plan on eclosing. This beauty will overwinter (be in diapause) as a pupa and I've had some in diapause for over 14 months! Yes, then after 14 months, a gorgeous butterfly emerged and flew off…

Never underestimate the Pipevine Swallowtail. They STILL never cease to amaze me!

The West Coast Lady butterfly

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The West Coast Lady (Vanessa annabella) is another member of the brush-foot butterfly family, the Nymphalidae. This one looks so much like the Painted Lady that if you don't look really carefully at the markings on the tips of the forewings OR at the dots on the hindwings, chances are you will think you are looking at a Painted Lady! This little WCL landed onn my teeny little potted Hollyhock and I had thought it was a PL. Thank goodness my camera was handy and I was able to capture its image.

The West Coast Lady is a small-to-medium-sized butterfly (1 1/2" to 2 1/4") that is found throughout the western and mid-western United States. It utilizes many of the same host plants as the Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui) which is why it is easily confused! So, if you have various plants in the mallow family (Malvaceae) which includes my favourite Lavatera maritima (tree mallow) or the common Cheeseweed then you just might find these beauties flying around! They also utilize Hollyhock (Althea), Checkerbloom (Sidalcea), and Bush mallow (Malvastrum) for host plants. Here's a close-up shows the detail of the West Coast Lady.Note that the difference between the WCL and the PL is that the WCL has an orange bar on that forewing (the PL's is white) and four brilliant blue dots on the hindwings (PLs have dark spots that are more brownish-black). These two markings are the easiest way to quickly determine which 'Lady' you have visiting in the garden.

Interestingly enough, the eggs of these two 'Lady' butterflies are so similar it is near impossible to determine which is which! The light green, somewhat barrel-shaped eggs have thin lines so that they look somewhat like a watermelon. They are a laid, usually, on the upper-sides of the host plant's leaves (although eggs have been found on the undersides, on flower blossoms, and on the stems!).

Here's a strange example of a mama who laid one egg on TOP of another! Here's another picture of a LOT of eggs that have been laid on a small Cheeseweed leaf...

Now, the West Coast Lady is usually found flying throughout the year in California but in other areas, it may be found in the summer and fall. The life-cycle is simple: mama oviposits on the host plant and within a week, the caterpillar hatches. After eating its shell, it goes on to search for the best leaf it can find (often NOT the one it was actually laid on!). The larva goes through a number of molts and looks quite different from the earliest instar to the later instar.

A young WCL caterpillar is dark in colour. Its bristles are apparent even at the earliest stages of its life. When it feels threatened, it will curl up. This curling continues throughout the caterpillar's life.

As it grows and molts, changes in colour are most apparent. Unlike the Painted Lady, this one has such diverse changes that it is fun to watch!

After approximately two weeks of eating and pooping the West Coast Lady larvae looks for a place to pupate. It will hang upside-down in the 'J' position, molt for the last time, toss off its head capsule, and voíla! A pupa! A chrysalis! Now, for approximately two weeks, it will be undergoing metamorphosis and then a pretty butterfly will soon eclose.

The pupa is somewhat similar to that of the Painted Lady although the major difference is the two white spots that look like eyes.

The Cabbage White butterfly

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Ahhh…the Cabbage White butterfly…this common little guy/gal is one that does bring joy to many children although it isn't one that is quite as brilliantly coloured as many. Its larvae (caterpillars) are a bane to farmers and vegetable gardeners; many also don't realize that the larvae become such darling little butterflies!

The Cabbage White (Pieris rapae) is a small to medium (wingspan of 1 3/4" to 2 1/4") butterfly that is one of the first to be seen in the Spring. It is a member of the Whites and Sulphur (Pieridae) family. This butterfly is found just about everywhere in the United States (North America).

One of the reasons the larvae are considered a pest is because the Cabbage White's host plant is found in the Brassicaceae family, commonly known as those in the mustards! So, if you plant such crops as cabbage, turnips, cauliflower, radish, broccoli, watercress, … then you might end up with some of the 'babies' of this butterfly! Nasturtiums are a member of this family as well.

Eggs are laid singly on the undersides of leaves and are a pale white/cream colour in a football shape. Soon, a little green caterpillar will hatch, and often is so well-camouflaged that you won't even know you have any munchers until your plant has begun to lose leaves!

The larvae are quite beautiful to behold, IF you aren't a farmer whose crops are being eaten away.

After pretty much completely devouring the host plant, the larva will wander off to find a place to pupate. The chrysalis is somewhat unusual looking. This butterfly does not hang down in the J-position nor does it make a sling like the swallowtails. Nope, instead, it sort of gloms on, looking almost like some sort of 'other' critter larvae! This picture was help upwards to show the front of the pupa. The caterpillar had actually pupated on the toilet tissue that was on the lid of a container.

After about two weeks, a pretty little butterfly will eclose.

The Mourning Cloak butterfly

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One of the longest-lived butterflies in the world (up to ten months) is the Mourning Cloak (Nymphalis antiopa), a brush-footed butterfly in the Nymphalidae family. This butterfly may be called Camberwell Beauty, Mourningcloak,… depending upon where you are from and is a friendly beauty. It was given its name because it looked much like it was wearing the dark cloak of mourning.

The wingspan is 2 1/4" to 4" so the Mourning Cloak is in the medium- to large-sized category of lepidoptera. They look like tree bark when their wings are closed up as they are a brownish-black colour. When their wings are wide open, on their purplish-black wings there is a creamy margin, almost yellow in colour, as a border on the outer wings, with a row of iridescent blue dots just along the inner edge of the border.

The Mourning Cloak uses trees for their host plant so if you have trees in the following families: Willow (Salix), Elms (Ulmus), Cottonwood, (Populus deltoides), Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis), or even Aspen (Populus tremuloides) then you may want to check for a grouping of about 30 or so eggs, usually oviposited (laid) along a twig! It takes a bit over a week for the larvae to hatch and then, as a group, the little ones begin their munch and poop-fest for the next couple weeks.

A gregarious group, Mourning Cloak larvae (caterpillars) do everything in their little family group until it is time to go find a place to pupate so chances are, you will spot a group of these bristly caterpillars together. Like all lepidoptera, the majority of a butterfly's nutrition is consumed in the larval stage.

When ready to pupate, they will leave the host plant to seek a nice, quiet place to undergo metamorphosis.

As adults, the Mourning Cloak prefer tree sap so you may find these butterflies near your trees! (In my garden, they prefer my Buddleia for nectar…yet, they do seem to like to bask on the branches of the Plumeria.) They overwinter as adults, usually in cracks and crevices in trees (they do camouflage so well!), emerging in the fall. This is probably why you will see them fluttering about nearly year-long.

The Anise Swallowtail butterfly

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The elegant Anise Swallowtail (Papilio zelicaon) is often mistaken for the Eastern Black Swallowtail (Papilio polyxenes) here in Southern California. The caterpillars look so much alike that this is probably one of the reasons the mistake occurs. Basically, this is the 'west coast' version of the Black Swallowtail. Both oviposit (lay eggs) on plants in the Apiaceae family which include Parsley, Fennel, and Dill. Sometimes, you may find eggs on plants in the Rutaceae family (citrus), which happened recently to me when I spotted two little babies on Valencia Orange tree leaves. I've also found eggs on my Rue (Ruta graveolens) herb. So, you see? They are a fairly adaptable species!

In the Orange County, California area, the Anise Swallowtail (herein, will be referred to as AST) has had a rather interesting history. When the county was still undeveloped and much of the land was more wild fields of wildflowers and grasses, Fennel was abundant and the AST could be found fluttering about.

Then, as land developers came in, taking over the fields and laying a concrete jungle, much like the fate of the royal Monarch butterflies with their host plant Milkweed (Asclepias spp.)), fewer Fennel plants became available. Fewer and fewer ASTs were soon seen. Many of these butterflies went into diapause, and some records indicate this 'overwintering' time went as long as up to seven years! (My personal experience: 14 months as the longest time my AST pupae stayed in diapause.) As gardeners began planting herbs such as Parsley and Rue and fields were being 'saved' or returned as wildlife parks, etc. we began to see a resurgence of these beauties.

Now, thank goodness, an abundance of Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) is now found in park reserves and along many roadsides in California, so the Anise Swallowtail is BACK! Just check this perennial (meaning, it grows all year long) to see if you can spot any of the spherical eggs of the AST…

It is often at the later instar that people often mistake the AST for a Monarch. Why do you think this is? (most likely because of the green and black colouration)

A hint to remember: A good indicator of what type of butterfly/caterpillar you have is to note what the caterpillar is eating. If the larva is eating Parsley, then it is NOT going to be a Monarch!

Note: Anise Swallowtails and Black Swallowtails also will eat Rue, Dill, Fennel, Citrus leaves,…

The Swallowtail butterflies do a rather interesting thing before they go off to pupate. This makes it easy to determine when they plan on pupating for those who are hand-raising them. What is the 'hint?' Ahhhh…it is simple. They do a gut-purging poop that is the most disgusting thing ever! It is almost like a diarrhea; runny, gooey, smelly…yep, it is like they've taken an enema or something. Once this is observed, the larva won't be eating any longer but will search for a place to pupate. Swallowtails make a silken harness or sling and hang head UP (no 'J' for them) when pupating.

The Anise Swallowtail pupa can be brown or green. There are often discussions and even controversies as to whether a Black or Anise Swallowtail's pupa will be green or brown depends solely on what it pupates against. NOT true! I have had brown pupa against green backgrounds and green against brown backgrounds and everything in between. So, that idea is out-the-door.

While in the pupa stage and undergoing metamorphosis, this butterfly may decide to 'hang out' and be in diapause for awhile. So, don't worry if you don't have an adult eclose in two weeks, or two months, or even ten months! It does not mean your pupa is dead! Don't squeeze it or anything either.

Just give it time…Good things come to those who wait. One day, you will have a glorious butterfly fluttering about your garden. These butterflies are just spectacular and all the waiting will be worthwhile.

The Queen butterfly

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More royalty in the butterfly world! The Queen (Danaus gilippus) is another of the 'Milkweed' butterflies. Sometimes mistaken for the Monarch, the Queen is a wee smaller in size with its majestic orange-y/brown colouration edged in black containing two lines of white polka-dots.

The Queen is a brush-footed butterfly in the Nymphalidae family. The wings reach from 2 5/8" to 3 7/8" wide, making them a medium- to large-sized butterfly.

Like the Monarch, adult males can be easily distinguished by the small black scale patch on the hindwing. As can be noted in their scientific name Danaus gilippus, Queens are a Milkweed butterfly and use Asclepias and related plants for their host plants. They are considered to be more of a 'warm-weather' or tropical butterfly but have been spotted in many locales. The adults enjoy nectaring from various flowers.

Like the Monarch, the Queen butterfly oviposits single creamy, football-shaped ova (eggs) on the undersides of the Milkweed leaves. Usually, eggs are laid on the undersides of the leaves, but as is the case, sometimes an egg may be laid on the top. This picture shows a Queen egg that was laid on the underside of an Asclepias curassavica (Tropical Milkweed) leaf but was turned right-side up for a better close-up view.

After about four days, a little caterpillar hatches, first eating its shell, then beginning its hunt for food. If you look really carefully, you can spot the three pairs of fleshy tubercles on this newly-hatched baby! Check out how big that black head, too…

It doesn't take long before the first molt (shedding of skin) and the beginning of the very recognizable 'look' of the Queen larva to appear. Here are two pictures of a 2nd instar. Look carefully to spot the three pairs of fleshy filaments (Monarchs have two pairs). These are often mistaken by many people to be antennae but no, they are not antennae!
Note: Clicking on pictures allows for enlarged views…

A caterpillar's main job is to eat (and poop!) and basically, to get the nutrients necessary to become a healthy adult. Adult butterflies don't take in much in the way of 'nutrition' but rely on what they eat as larvae. This is why it is critical during their larval period that they are provided with the BEST baby food available! Healthy babies=healthy adults. Here is a 4th instar Queen 'baby' who is getting closer to that time of the next stage in the life-cycle: pupa.

The Queen pupa looks remarkably like that of the Monarch although some may be a bit lighter in colour or even pink! The pupa undergoes metamorphosis (roughly two weeks). Soon, a gorgeous butterfly will eclose, ready to continue its life-cycle, once again.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Because the Danaus gilippus is closely related to the Monarch it is, unfortunately, prone to many of the same 'issues' such as OE spore and Tachinid Fly parasitization. Please refer to the Monarch section for information on these two horrendous pitfalls if you plan on raising the Queen.

Where can I find caterpillars and eggs?

2009-01-25T16:15:00.002-08:00

Where can I find eggs and/or caterpillars? Well, IF you plant the right plants, THEN the butterflies will find you and soon you will have eggs and caterpillars in your own garden!

The important thing to remember is this: in your garden you need to have both HOST plants and NECTAR plants. Now, some host plants are also nectar plants so they do 'double duty.'

What's the difference between 'host' and 'nectar' plants?

Let's start with nectar plants since most people already have these in their gardens. The Buddleia pictured at the top, with the little Skipper butterfly nectaring on it is a great nectar plant. Nectar plants are those plants that produce a sweet liquid from the flower blossoms or nectaries.

Many adult butterflies rely on the nectar as an extra fuel source to help them fly and/or for mating purposes. Here is a male Queen (Danaus gilippus) who just adores the Mexican Flame Vine. Now, not all butterflies are nectar-seekers like him; some prefer tree sap…but, most garden centers and nurseries will have nectar-rich plants in their 'butterfly garden' sections. Those butterflies like the Mourning Cloak, can often be found around sap-rich trees in parks. So, keep this in mind! The bottom line: the key to getting and finding eggs and caterpillars is having host plants.

Host plants are those that butterflies will oviposit or lay eggs on. These are not always the same as 'nectar' plants although sometimes, as in the case of Milkweed, the blossoms produce a very sweet nectar that is delectable to nectar-seeking insects and birds. Having host plants in your garden is critical IF you want to have butterflies STAY around because these are the plants where they will leave their precious offspring!

Since a lot of folks already have nectar plants, what they need to plant in order to keep the butterflies around is the host plant. Now, any host plant will simply not do! Depending upon where you live and the climate as well as what butterflies are found in the area should determine what types of host plants should be purchased. The links about the specific butterfly species each provide information about what host plants each butterfly uses. Go back and re-read them if you live in the Southern California area. For those of you living in other parts of the United States, click here to link to the USGS Butterflies and Moths of North America website and find your state and county.

An important thing to remember about host plants is this: THINK like a BUTTERFLY and PLANT in GROUPS! Patches of a particular host plant is much more desirable than one plant here and one plant over there. For example, Monarchs have a keen sense of smell and are much more likely to find your garden if you have at least five Milkweed plants grouped together.

NOW you can go and start hunting for eggs and caterpillars.

Butterflies are SO specific about where they will oviposit. Knowing what the plant is will tell you what butterfly laid the egg (usually). Butterflies usually oviposit in particular places on plants, too. Monarchs generally lay on the undersides of leaves whereas Giant Swallowtails find tender new growth and lay on the tops toward the tips of leaves. But, like any person you know, each butterfly is unique and may surprise you.

Some mama butterflies are even creatures of habit and will oviposit in the same 'area' over and over and over again! I had a Monarch like one leaf so much she laid a LOT of eggs on it and books will tell you that Monarchs only lay ONE egg per leaf. Ha! Check out this picture…

With caterpillars, go out in the early morning hours or early evening to look on the host plants. Look for 'chew marks' on the leaves. This is a good indicator that you've got a little 'baby' somewhere nearby (or a grasshopper, maybe!).

Turn the leaves over and you might find yourself a prize. This one is a young Monarch larva on an Asclepias curassavica (Tropical Milkweed) leaf. That little hole seen on the leaf was the clue!

So, get out and get host plants planted in your garden. Trust me, butterflies will find them! (be patient…it does take time!)

Is my caterpillar dead? It isn't moving!

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My caterpillar hasn't been moving. What's wrong? Is it dead? Should I move it to another leaf? Put something else in there? HELP! I'm frantic! I'm in a panic!

Okay, it is time to RELAX! That's right. Relax. Breathe. Chances are that your caterpillar is ready to molt. Shed its skin. Change instars. Grow. Become a bigger caterpillar. And, all your worrying is for nothing! In fact, if you 'bug' the little guy, he/she is NOT going to be pleased at all and you might do more damage than good.

Butterfly larva go through several instars. Each time, they will molt or shed their skin because they outgrow the skin that they are in. When it is time to do this, they often will go to find a nice, quiet place and stop moving, sometimes for around 24-hours or so. With Monarchs, a lot of times, for those of us who raise them indoors, the perfect spot might be on the top (lid) of the rearing container. For others, like this Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae), it might be on a leaf.This little guy just molted and has moved away from his exuvia and is letting his 'new' outer skin dry. Soon, he will go back to eat the exuvia.

It takes time for the skin to come off then time for the caterpillar to turn around and go back to EAT the skin. Here's an Anise Swallowtail (Papilio zelicaon) who is just getting started on the munching. If you are fortunate enough to watch this, it is quite fascinating! Click on the picture for a close-up view.

Remember, if the caterpillar is still, it hasn't moved in some time, then leave it alone!~ Do not touch it. Do not move it. Do not force it onto a leaf. Do not do anything but leave it in peace.

SO, if your little caterpillar doesn't move for awhile, what are you going to do? Leave alone, right? Good! Soon, your little one will be a BIGGER one!

Life-cycle of an Anise Swallowtail

2009-01-25T16:14:00.000-08:00

Ever wondered about the life-cycle of an Anise (on the East Coast, the Black Swallowtail is the most similar) swallowtail butterfly? How it changes? What it goes through? These butterflies are somewhat unique (in my opinion) because they begin life looking one way then change totally!

Swallowtails begin as an egg. The Anise Swallowtail (Papilio zelicaon) egg is spherical, or ball-like. They are sort of yellow or light or cream in colour. The mama oviposits (lays) the eggs one at a time on plants in the Apiaceaea or citrus family. Here is an egg that has been laid on Fennel. Other plants may include Dill, Parsley, Rue…

Temperature can often have an effect on how long it takes for a butterfly egg to hatch. Ants and other critters may take off and eat the egg. Others may lay their eggs on the egg. Who'd have thought so much could happen…and, in the meantime, something is going on inside…

You will begin to see changes in the egg colour. The top begins to darken. This will be the caterpillar's head.

As soon as it hatches, the 1st instar (first larval stage) turns around and eats its own eggshell! Cool, huh.Now, the little one will take off to look for food and its main job in the upcoming weeks is to eat and poop. Something lots of people don't realize is that in a butterfly's life, the larval time is CRITICAL.

During this time, the 'baby' gets all of its nutrition and how well it eats and how healthy it is will help to determine its adult life. Sounds kind of like humans, doesn't it? The Anise Swallowtail will undergo five instars.

As the caterpillar eats and poops, its body grows. When its skins gets 'too tight,' then its time to molt. The caterpillar will go off to find a nice quite place to do its molting (shedding of its old skin). If you are raising butterflies, this is when you LEAVE THEM ALONE. Molting often can take several hours. The old skin comes off and like with the eggshell, the larva turns around eats its skin!

And then, voila! Nice and happy new larva.
Now it is time to continue with the eating…and pooping… More leaves are eaten until soon, the caterpillar is big and plump and looks about to burst from its skin.

Soon, it is time to pupate. Before they pupate, they will do a gut purge. It's like a 'binge-and-purge'…all of that last-minute eating then a nasty blast! Instead of their usual hard frass (poop), they let loose with a really loose stool (a runny poop that is like diarrhea. Eeew!).

The caterpillar is now ready to find the perfect pupating spot. It is usually NOT on the host plant but can be somewhere nearby OR even quite some distance away! Don't be too surprised to find the larva has 'disappeared' if you've left it outdoors. Although a lot of butterflies pupate with their heads down in that 'J' position, swallowtails don't. Instead, they make a silken sling or harness and their heads are positioned UP. Pupa colour can be green or brown and why the two? Who knows. Controversy exists as to this and no, it doesn't matter what is nearby (it definitely has nothing to do with camouflage!). That little blob at the bottom is the larva's head capsule-the final 'molt' when it shed its skin…

After two weeks or more, a beautiful adult will eclose (emerge). (No, butterflies don't 'hatch' from a chrysalis.) Why the 'or more?' Sometimes, these beauties will go into a state of diapause. They will 'overwinter.' It means they decide they don't want to eclose just yet! So, they hang out as a pupa for weeks or months. Just give them time…

Rearing Caterpillars: What can I use for a Container?

2009-01-25T16:13:00.004-08:00

Do I have to buy special materials to raise caterpillars? What is the best container to use to rear butterfly larvae? Is it going to cost a lot of money?

These are questions that are asked ALL the time. There are no right or wrong answers. In fact, if you were to Google the questions, chances are, there are lots of products available for purchase! But, guess what…you can easily MAKE your own container for very little money. You can even use RECYCLED materials so the container costs you…nothing!

Important Note: If you plan on using just ONE container to rear your caterpillars, then be sure that you do not raise too many in that one container. Overcrowding is not a good thing. Just an early warning…

Clear, plastic 16-ounce deli containers with lids make FABULOUS caterpillar rearing containers. You know, those containers where you buy 16-oz of potato salad? They're PERFECT! They are big enough for larvae to complete an entire life-cycle.

The first thing you need to do is wash both the lid and container well. Then, using a needle OR corkscrew, punch some holes in the lid, from the INSIDE of the lid out. Don't use a nail—the holes will be too big.

You can then line the bottom with a cut-to-fit coffee filter (or not–the choice is yours—I do it just to make clean up easier). Place your host plant leaves inside then your larva. Pop the lid on and you are done!

Remember to clean out the container daily. It is also important to WASH it regularly as well. (I keep several containers handy so I simply transfer the larvae to another container while the containers are being cleaned.)

When the larvae are close to pupating, simply cut a round coffee filter to fit over the top, put the lid back on, and that's it. The larvae will pupate onto the filter. You can also place clothespins (as shown) or chopsticks or whatever inside for the caterpillars to climb upon.

Special Note: If you are interested in purchasing a lot of these containers, then go to a restaurant supply store like Smart 'n Final where they sell the 16-oz deli containers in packages of 50. The lids are sold separately.

The Birth of a Monarch

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Visit my Monarch website for more information about this majestic butterfly.

Advance note: Click on the pictures to enlarge them for a better view!

To be at the birth of a baby is a wondrous occasion for anyone. To be able to watch a butterfly baby being born is something else! Such a teeny little thing is a butterfly's baby…first starting off as a minuscule egg.

After about four days, the little head becomes visible and soon, you can see the larva (caterpillar) begin to make its way out.

Oooh! Here it comes! Slowly, the little one makes its way out of the creamy egg…that dark little spot is the head of the 'baby.' Just like any baby, the head will change dramatically within days.

The little one is almost completely out of that eggshell! The big world is waiting…what's coming?

Oh, just a wee bit more…you can do it…you can do it…you can do it!
Hooray! You did it! Completely out! What's next for this little one? What is the first thing on the agenda, now that it is out in the big world? What would YOU do?

Okay, don't laugh…but like all babies, Monarchs are no different. This little one is HUNGRY! Guess what it eats first? Nope, not a leaf…but…the eggshell! Yes, the first thing a caterpillar will do is turn around and eat the chorion or the eggshell. Hmmm…interesting, isn't it?

Now that this is done, it is time to go and search for a nice, green leaf…Milkweed, of course. (Asclepias spp. in the United States or Calotropis if it lives in Hawaii).

The Birth of a Giant Swallowtail

2009-01-25T16:13:00.001-08:00

Nothing is more exciting than watching the birth of a baby. When that baby is a new butterfly, well, it is quite fascinating! Each butterfly 'baby' is so unique that to be able to capture it in pictures is…well, see for yourself. Here's the birth of a Giant Swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes).

First, there was the egg. After five days, the egg darkened and the head of the larva (caterpillar) became visible.

A little hole was made and…

here I come!
Almost there,

Oooh come on, come on…

Yes! I did it!

Now it is time to go and find something to eat.

Gender ID a Giant Swallowtail Pupa

2009-01-25T16:12:00.001-08:00

Have you ever wondered how to gender ID a Giant Swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes) pupa? Well, it isn't very difficult! The hardest part is if the chrysalis is attached to something. The two pupae I am using in this picture were both attached to coffee filters (one was partially attached to a leaf) so I simply cut the paper behind them to show the backs.

Turn the pupa (chrysalis) over. Now, look at the abdomen (pointy part of the pupa or the part that was hanging down if your pupa was on a stick). You may need a magnifying lens if you can't see very well!

IF you spot a vertical line (see picture below) then you have a female Giant Swallowtail. If no line is there, then you have a male. The blue marking (oval) indicates what the line looks like.

Click on the picture for an enlarged view.

Isn't that easy? Simpler than you probably thought, right?